1955 200R4 automatic transmission to Belair

Flywheel Gear: Manual transmission vits (flywheel) clutch printing and pads. You now need a flywheel (flex plate) to match the turbine's bolt hole range (you can choose to match two different hole ranges called dual patterns). In addition, the number of teeth outside must be the same as the flywheel you will remove so that it can continue to work in line with your starter engine (Summitracing SUM-G100SFI). The 1955-57 Chevrolethas 168-toothed flywheel. You need to get a flywheel gear according to the engine's balance weight type (internal-external). Since my Chevrolet 1955 265 cuin engine is "internally balanced,"" I chose the appropriate fly wheel. In 1955-56, the starter motor was connected to the flywheel enclosure (bellhousing). When you change the transmission, you won't find a place to connect your starter engine, so you'll have to take Danchuk's #10100-coded adapter and connect the starter engine to your engine with this. You also need a flywheel saccna to cover your latest flywheel gear, scraper or Danchuk #2277.

Turbine (Torque Converter): After you decide the transmission, you need to make other choices. The part that provides the connection between the engine and the transmission by adjusting the oil pressure according to the circuit during take-offs; I mean, automatic clutch. Never buy it used, it is not possible to completely drain the oil in it; old oil and particles will obsolete your new transmission. The notch number of the turbine you received must be the same as the transmission, the bolt hole ranges must be compatible with your flywheel shaft (e.g. 10.75in). Grip value (stall rpm); in what era the turbine is fully grasped. Suitable for daily use from 1500 to 1700 rpm; it's suitable for higher-speed engines for higher performance purposes and increases your fuel consumption. The second data is turbine diameter (12, 11, 10inch). Usually the diameter will increase as the diameter shrinks. Also, if your transmission has a lock-up, the turbine must also be lock-up.

Before placing the transmission, gently fill up to 2 kg of oil into the turbine and place it in the transmission, make sure the pump gear is fully seated and the turbine is not in front. Connect the transmission of the TV cable before replacing the transmission again. The tire seal comes out of the TV cable, and if there is a gasket on the transmission you receive, do not try to install both gaskets 🙂

TV Cable (Throttle Valve Cable):TH350 and TH400 are controlled by vacuum and rocket wire from the carburetor, while on 200-R4 and 700-R4, the control head between the engine and the transmission is only on the TV. Adjusting the u wire that controls the pressure regulator in the transmission and the correct amount of withdrawal is directly related to the performance or garbage of the transmission; because the wire adjusts the timing of the gear change with the oil pressure of the transmission. If the TV wire is pulled too much, the oil pressure is high (good), but the gear changes are very harsh. If the TV wire is low, the oil pressure will be low, although it changes very enjoyable gear, your pads will be roasted very soon. You need to get this wire ready, one end is connected to the transmission and the other end is connected to the carburetor. However, you need to do a fine engineering in connection to your carburetor and keep the distance of movement given in the drawings. At bowtieoverdrives.com you can find many sets tailored to your carburetor and make it easy for you. TV Cable is the part you need to pay most attention to in this project, and will require a fine adjustment. A skateboard errand is coming on the cable where you can press with your finger and adjust the length of the wire.

Cooling and oil: Cooling is important for the performance and life of the transmission. With insufficient cooling, you can probably kill your oil and pads in a short time. You must connect the oil cooling inputs and outputs of your transmission to the cooling radiator with a record or pressure resistant hose. Some cars have a separate oil cooling circuit at the bottom or next to the water radiator. If your radiator is not compatible with this, you will need to connect an additional oil radiator. You'd also need to wear oil heat and monitor the transmission harar emanating from within the vehicle with a little modification to your gearbox. The place you connect can also work as an oil drain plug – if you don't have the transmission you're in- When you call CP8201 on ebay.com, you can get an indicator worthy of your classic with your customer for $30, including cargo. In normal condition, the oil temperature on the sump should not exceed 90 degrees (200F). In addition, your transmission will take approximately 12 liters of automatic transmission oil, but put 8-9 liters of insertion inside the turbine before starting. Please do not use cheap oil in your project that you have invested so much, carefully inspect the packaging of ATF oils, the minimum specification should be Dextron 3 (do not use Dextron 2 or 1). The heat resistance of cheap oils is low and can also damage your electronic circuits. You can find these oils in OPET or Castrol, it can also be in other brands. 

Connections: Your transmission will be connected to the front engine and from the rear tail to the chassis. There will be different modifications for different models here. For the connection from the tail section, you must have a profile (crossmember) in your chassis. If you're doing it for the 1955-57 Chevrolet, you need to connect the carrier profile to both sides of the chassis, which you can get ready (Danchuk #12564) or make (pictured) because there is no profile. You should also get the original ear to connect the transmission to the profile (Danchuk #977A). You may need to move your exhaust silencers.  There's an important detail i've learned with experience here. If your engine is connected by my front-eared connection like 1955, the rear transmission connection unfortunately does not prevent the engine from relocating with torque, and the engine creates a dangerous situation by tearing your ears off in the medium term. To do this, you need to convert your engine into side-eared connections (unfortunately there are kits for engines only in 1958 and beyond), or additional connections to the chassis from there to the chassis of the transmission-engine connection (Danchuk #870).

 

Shaft and skateboard: If the length of the transmission you insert with the transmission you remove is different, you will need to shorten your shaft and insert it if it is divided. You need to get a skateboarder (yoke) suitable for 200R4 transmissions (27 spine-gear) and shaft joint (type 1310 in 1955s). In any case, you will need to shorten the shaft; the length of the skateboarder does not matter. I preferred Summitracing AXE-T350-HP.

 

Gear Lever: Now give your gear seof P, R, N, OD, D, D2 and D1 gears. You're going to have to make a very complicated adjustment to the gears, both from the ground and the steering wheel. You should also get a Neutral Safety Switch (ClassicChevy.com #25-07) that controls your gear lights, preventing the vehicle from running in a gear other than P and N. For off-the-ground gears, the gear adapters are attached to the gearbox from the top. For arm gear, things are a little harder. You need to remove the entire steering pipe. If you can find it, buy the steering pipe and mileage of an automatic vehicle from the scrapyard. If you can't find it, you need to carefully distribute the manual pipe and adapt it to the automatat. To do this, i will outline what you need to do, you can ask the details by email. But you're going to have to rehearse a lot.

    

 

First, you should remove the connecting rings at the end of the gearshaft and boil only 1 of them into the pipe in the appropriate position. You need to open a slit over the steering pipe. It's going to be attached here with a gear screw. Make a ledge to the gear shaft, which will coincide with the slit you've opened, this protrusion will pass to the square and will last as you lower the gear lever. Again, make a metal part to the engine compartment of the steering pipe to lock the gear at Position P. The simky electrical connections must be made by the electrician. The customer can be adjusted where it is mounted, and after you start the tool, you can fine-adjust it. 

I recommend that you get an indicator for automatic gear from ebay, Danchuk or the scrapyard, because the original gear indicator assembly is coming on. You need to fasten a thin copper wire to the right side of the gearpipe and attach this wire to the mileage indicator through a thin slit that you will open to the steering pipe. As you pull the gear lever down, this wire moves in the slit, moving the gear hand. 

Pressure indicator: I don't think you can adjust your transmission correctly without a pressure indicator. Again, connect the pressure indicator from the bowtieoverdrives.com to the driver-side port of your transmission before starting first. Once the settings are complete, you will remove this indicator. This indicator will help you with the tests you need to do after the transmission conversion is completed. Note the pressures on P, R, N, O, D, L1 and L2 when the vehicle is at 1000 rpm after the first start. When you pull the TV cable a little with your finger, see the pressure increases, so you know there's no gap in the wire. Then repeat the pressures in the same gears with the help of someone, pulling the TV cable to the end without touching the gas wire. The results should be about as follows, below these values your transmission does not operate with sufficient pressure, it is at risk. If the values are above this, you can adjust and re-check according to your driving comfort. To adjust the TV cable, you need to scroll the adjustment bar back and forth by pressing the button (the pressure will increase as you slide to the driver's side) 

Gear	TV in normal condition pressure	TV full towed pressure
Park, Neutral @ 1000 rpm	55-65 PSI	115-135 PSI
Reverse (back) @ 1000 rpm	105-120 PSI	215-255 PSI
OD (4), D (3) @ 1000 rpm	55-65 PSI	115-135 PSI
D2, D1@ 1000 rpm	120-140 PSI	120-140 PSI

 

Mileage wire: Make sure there is a milestone connector connection hub on the gearbox you will purchase, or buy separately. You can also find the number of teeth in the belly gear gear you need to buy by entering your tyre sizes, differential ratio and type of gear inside the transmission with the online calculation in the bowtiesoverdrives.com. Before filling your oil, insert the gear and belly into place and fasten your milewire (I used the same wire). 

Once you've made all your assemblies and connections, you can now run your car. Complete the missing oil after the start, remember that you should look at the oil of the transmission while the vehicle is warmed and running. Once you've made sure everything's running without flowing, without making a sound, go on the drive and check the gear shift performance. Remember, if you change the TV cable setting, make sure you redo the oil pressure measurements. After all your settings are finished, you can remove the pressure gauge and insert the original plug. I wish you a lot of automatic and enjoyable…

 

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Useful links:Assembly
, setting and testing instruction:http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/BOW%20TIE%20OVERDRIVES%20INSTALLATION%20INSTRUCTIONS%20GUIDELIN
ES.pdf200r4 picture assembly: http://www.classicchevy.com/assets/pdf/classicchevy/19-01.pdf

List of materials:

– 200R4 and lockup converter (transdepot.net, bowtieoverdrives.com
)- Lockup wiring kit
:http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata…php?ITEMID=34
1- Pressure indicator: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata…BCAT&CATI
D=SA2- Heat indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Sunpro-CP8201-…3898023&sr=
8-3-TV wire: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata…SUBCAT&CATID
=W- Slip: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AXE-T350-HP
/- Flexplate: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G100SFI
/- Cross member
:http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx…564&…Item i
tem=12564http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx…977a
&item=977ahttp://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx…1003
&item=1003- Neutral safety switch: http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-ne…1955
-1957.html- Indicator lens: http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx…248
&Item=10248- Starter engine kit: http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx…1
00&Item=10100- Transmission mount kit: http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx…h
=870&Item=870-Gear link: http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx…h=952&It
em=952- Cooling hoses: desired, flexible or hard li
ne.- Cooling radiator: if your radiator is old, good chance to buy new one with oil provisions(Or a seperate oil-cooler radiato
r):http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx…072&Item=12
072- Oil bar: http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata…BCAT&CATID=TA2
– Km. wire gear and housing:h
ttp://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.phpğAction=GETSUBCAT&CATID=DA1
– 12 lt. Atf: OPET may be in Dexron 3 specification